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FCC, OEM ref or VIN

Ford

This range covers aftermarket replacement remotes, transponder keys and smart keys, supplied uncut and unprogrammed for trade and retail fitting.Ford deploys multiple key and remote variants across its range, with mid-generation changes common. Identical model years frequently require different parts, so identification should proceed from FCC ID and then OEM part number rather than from vehicle year and model.Fitment is determined by the FCC ID and the OEM part number, not by year, make and model. The FCC ID appears on the rear of the original remote or inside the battery compartment; the part number is normally moulded inside the housing. A single FCC ID can span several part numbers across different vehicles, so both should be confirmed against the original before ordering.All items require programming to the target vehicle, and bladed keys require cutting. This is expected for aftermarket stock and is not a defect. Programming is typically completed by an automotive locksmith with diagnostic equipment; dealer-level access is generally only needed on very recent vehicles or where all keys are lost.

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Ford — buyer questions

Read this before you order: matching the FCC ID and part number is what determines whether a replacement works.

Which Ford key do I need for my exact vehicle?
Start with the FCC ID on the remote you already have, then confirm the OEM part number inside the housing. Ford uses several different remotes across its range and often changes them mid-generation, so two vehicles of the same model year can take different keys. Matching on year and model alone is the usual cause of a wrong order.
Does my Ford use a transponder key or a smart key?
If you insert a key and turn it to start, you need a transponder or remote-head key. If the vehicle starts with a button while the key stays in your pocket, you need a smart proximity key. Check which system your vehicle uses before ordering, because the two are not interchangeable even within the same model line.
How do I make sure a Ford key will fit my vehicle?
Match the FCC ID printed on your existing remote, not just the year, make and model. The FCC ID identifies the radio frequency and transponder protocol your car listens for, so a remote that looks identical can still be ignored by your vehicle. Where a listing also shows an OEM part number, confirm that against the number on your original fob. If your vehicle was built near a model-year changeover, the identifiers matter more than the year.
Where do I find the FCC ID on my key?
It is normally printed, etched or on a label on the back of the remote, and on many fobs it sits inside the battery compartment. Pop the cover and look for a code beginning with a short letter-and-number sequence. If the original is lost and you cannot read an FCC ID anywhere, an automotive locksmith or your dealer can identify the correct one from your VIN.
Where is the part number, and why does it matter?
The manufacturer part number is usually printed inside the fob housing or on the circuit board, and it is more specific than the FCC ID. One FCC ID can cover several different part numbers that fit different vehicles, so when both are available the part number is the deciding check. This is the single most common reason a replacement arrives and turns out to be the wrong key.
Does a replacement work straight out of the box?
No. Every replacement remote, transponder key or smart key has to be programmed to your specific vehicle before it will lock, unlock or start it, and keys with a metal blade also need cutting. That is normal and is not a fault with the part. Some vehicles allow an onboard programming sequence, but most modern ones require a locksmith or dealer with diagnostic equipment.
Should I use a locksmith or the dealership?
An automotive locksmith is usually faster and less expensive, and a mobile locksmith can often come to the vehicle. A dealership is the safer route when the car is very new, when the immobiliser needs manufacturer-level access, or when all keys are lost and the system must be reset. Either way, buying the part separately and paying only for programming is normally cheaper than a dealer-supplied key.
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