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Car Keys & Remotes

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This range covers aftermarket replacement remotes, transponder keys and smart keys, supplied uncut and unprogrammed for trade and retail fitting. Combined listing of entry remotes, remote-head keys and proximity smart keys across stocked makes. Selection is driven by ignition type — turn-key platforms take transponder or remote-head keys, push-to-start platforms take proximity keys — and then narrowed by FCC ID and part number. Visually identical housings frequently carry different boards and chips. Fitment is determined by the FCC ID and the OEM part number, not by year, make and model. The FCC ID appears on the rear of the original remote or inside the battery compartment; the part number is normally moulded inside the housing. A single FCC ID can span several part numbers across different vehicles, so both should be confirmed against the original before ordering. All items require programming to the target vehicle, and bladed keys require cutting. This is expected for aftermarket stock and is not a defect. Programming is typically completed by an automotive locksmith with diagnostic equipment; dealer-level access is generally only needed on very recent vehicles or where all keys are lost.

Car Keys & Remotes — buyer questions

Read this before you order: matching the FCC ID and part number is what determines whether a replacement works.

What is the difference between a key fob, a transponder key and a smart key?
A remote key fob sends lock and unlock commands by radio but the car is still started with a physical key. A transponder key contains a chip the immobiliser must recognise before the engine will crank. A smart or proximity key works with push-button start and lets the car detect the key without taking it out of your pocket. They are not interchangeable, so identify which type your vehicle uses before ordering.
My car has push-button start. Which type do I need?
You need a smart or proximity key, not a standard remote or a turn-key transponder. A push-to-start vehicle looks for the key inside the cabin before it will allow the engine to start, which a plain remote cannot do. If a listing does not clearly state that it is a proximity or smart key, treat it as unsuitable for push-button start.
Can I replace just the shell or the battery instead?
Often yes, and it is worth checking first. If the buttons still work intermittently or the range has dropped, a fresh battery frequently solves it. If the electronics are fine but the case is cracked or the buttons are worn through, a replacement shell lets you move the original board and blade across and avoids programming entirely.
How do I make sure a key fob remote will fit my vehicle?
Match the FCC ID printed on your existing remote, not just the year, make and model. The FCC ID identifies the radio frequency and transponder protocol your car listens for, so a remote that looks identical can still be ignored by your vehicle. Where a listing also shows an OEM part number, confirm that against the number on your original fob. If your vehicle was built near a model-year changeover, the identifiers matter more than the year.
Where do I find the FCC ID on my key?
It is normally printed, etched or on a label on the back of the remote, and on many fobs it sits inside the battery compartment. Pop the cover and look for a code beginning with a short letter-and-number sequence. If the original is lost and you cannot read an FCC ID anywhere, an automotive locksmith or your dealer can identify the correct one from your VIN.
Where is the part number, and why does it matter?
The manufacturer part number is usually printed inside the fob housing or on the circuit board, and it is more specific than the FCC ID. One FCC ID can cover several different part numbers that fit different vehicles, so when both are available the part number is the deciding check. This is the single most common reason a replacement arrives and turns out to be the wrong key.
Does a replacement work straight out of the box?
No. Every replacement remote, transponder key or smart key has to be programmed to your specific vehicle before it will lock, unlock or start it, and keys with a metal blade also need cutting. That is normal and is not a fault with the part. Some vehicles allow an onboard programming sequence, but most modern ones require a locksmith or dealer with diagnostic equipment.
Should I use a locksmith or the dealership?
An automotive locksmith is usually faster and less expensive, and a mobile locksmith can often come to the vehicle. A dealership is the safer route when the car is very new, when the immobiliser needs manufacturer-level access, or when all keys are lost and the system must be reset. Either way, buying the part separately and paying only for programming is normally cheaper than a dealer-supplied key.
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